Castle witnessed rise and fall of Tokugawa Shogunate

 Today I guided my guest to Nijo Castle and we enjoyed the festival to commemorate the 150th anniversary of “Taisei Hokan”, the return of  the sovereignty to the Emperor by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  If you visit Nijo Castle, you would stroll inside the Ninomaru Palace consists of 33 rooms. One of the biggest room is historical place where the last Tokugawa Shogun  announced the plan to give the power back to the Emperor. 

This historical picture depicts the moment when the Shougun announced the plan and his follower was listening the shocking announcement. 

You can enjoy virtual walking tour in Nijo Castle from following link.
http://www2.city.kyoto.lg.jp/bunshi/nijojo/nijoujou0930amana-p/nijoujou0930amana-p/tour.html


 Around that time of the end of Tokugawa shogunate, there were a lot of revolutionaries in Kyoto city to change the Samurai regime. To prevent their revolutionary plan, Tokugawa shogunate organized the special police force called "Shinsengumi". In the show we enjoyed today, Vice Commander of "Shinsengumi" defeated some outlaws.

 The show was held in front of Ninomaru palace. Blue uniform wearing man is the role of Hijikata Toshizo,  Vice Commander of "Shinsengumi". 

 They are actors from Toei Kyoto Studio Park. The Japanese swords they are using is well made imitation so even sightseeing people can manage it. 

 Nijo Castle was the symbolic building of Tokugawa Shogunate in Kyoto to show off his power. It had the castle tower but it was burned out because of lightning. You can browse the tower from the following link.
National treasure "The area in and around the Kyoto city (Funaki-version)"

 This folding screen was painted around 1615. It was the time of "Siege of Osaka", Tokugawa Shogunate attacked the castle of his rival Toyotomi. Following historical drama depicting the scene that Tokugawa Ieyasu taking the enemy's former vassal into his side.(Around 0:35) 
"Historical Drama “Sanada Maru”"

Nijo Castle was used not only for military purpose but also for diplomatic purpose by showing off magnificent folding screen paintings.

 Talking back to the folding screen that I showed with link address above,
it is called "rakuchū rakugai-zu" in Japanese and that means  paintings of the area in and around Kyoto city. I really like it, actually my blog title is inspired by the name of the folding screen. And it is interesting to note that "Rakuchū ", inside the Kyoto city was surrounded by rampart wall. 



GFDL, Link



 After visiting Nijo Castle, I guided my guest to the oldest building inside the above former  rampart wall.  The main hall of Senbonshakado was built in 1227. It was almost 800 years ago and the main hall has survived war fire and fire incidents. It also holds interesting "Six Kanon statues" carved in that time and they are designated as National Treasure. I would write about them in other time.

 On the way to back to the hotel, we talked about their next destination "Uji city" famous for green tea production. I told them a well known joke about tea is that "Green tea flows out instead of water when you turn on a faucet in school located in Uji city."
 They also talked me a joke. They have watched a  Japanese anthology horror film "Kwaidan " consists of four separate stories and one of them was "Hoichi the Earless". The thing was my name "Koichi" is similar to "Hoichi" and they were relief to know that I am not "Hoichi the Earless".

“Saigu Procession” held around Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

 Bamboo forest of Arashiyama is always bustling with people and most of them are from overseas. With so many foreign visitors, some time I feel like walking in the somewhere outside of Japan such as China… There is the one way to escape from such feeling and coming back to Japan in Arashiyama. That is “Saigu Procession”.

On the day of “Saigu Procession” you can enjoy many Japanese wearing traditional clothes. Every year, it is the annual event held third Sunday of October so I went to Arashiya that day with my guest to see the procession.

                               

 The place we enjoyed the procession was located just after crossing the Togetsu-kyo bridge. We could take many photos without bothering traffic. And it was the place where the procession stops and all associates of the procession is supposed to be gathered there and supposed to be taken the group photo. It was the best place to take whole procession with backdrop of the bridge and mountains of Arashiyama.

 Those ancient instruments are associated with Shintoism. It is used for enhancing the power of deities.

 Saigu procession has historical significance and originally it headed to Ise Shrine, the most important Japanese Shintoism shrine located between Kyoto and Tokyo. Even president Obama visited there this May because G8 summit was held in the prefecture of Grand Shrine Ise.

The procession is mainly consisted of locals.

 Talking about the procession consists of people wearing historical costumes, we remind the “Jidaimatsuri” or "Festival of Ages" , its procession starts from the imperial place in Kyoto to Heinan shrine. It is so interesting festival that you can enjoy many traditional costumes but the problem is that it is always clouded with people around the procession. This year, festival of Ages procession was held the next Sunday of Saigu so I expected many people coming to enjoy it. Thet’s why I chose for Saigu procession instead of “Jidaimatsuri”.

After enjoyed the procession, we climbed up to the Monkey Park located in the almost top of the mountain. I took about 20 minutes to get to there but on the way to the destination, my guest could ask me some general questions of Japanese culture such as the local festivals. It was good change escaping from the noisy cities and attract with cute monkeys.

Please be careful, some monkeys would upset to you if you take the photo of them in close distance.

Before the Arashiyama, we visited Nijo Castle located nearby my guest accommodation. On the way to the castle, we stopped in the shrine that has golden tori gate. It is the shrine associated with metals. There were also water purification basin to wash coins. Maybe we can expect the purified coins would attract more of them in your wallet.

 Maybe you would notice that my guest wearing old costume again. Shigureden is the best place to enjoy to experience old aristocrat culture and avoid crowd of people in Arashiyama. 

Memorial service for Dolls held in Hokyoji Temple

Talking about the doll associated festival, Hina-matsuri or Girls' Festival observed on March 3 is well known traditional Japanese event. Each family displays a set of Hina dolls and prays for the healthy development of their girls. But few knows about the doll memorial service and its significance. Every October 14, memorial service for Dolls is held in Hokyoji Temple so I guides my guest there to explain about our traditional culture. There were already a lot of people when we arrived at the temple. Last year I took some photos at the front line so I gave the good view point to my guest. Following is the photos I took last year.

Tayu high ranked geisha attends the memorial service and offer the traditional performing arts. This year also a lot of dolls were gathered there. Among them was stuffed animal such as Pooh. My guest's family has daughters and they cherished stuffed animal but American doesn't have custom to hold memorial service for dolls. The difference comes from Japanese believing that all bad things such as illness and evil spirits will be transferred to them by touching the dolls. So the memorial service is to appreciate dolls at the end. After visiting Hokyoji Temple, we went to Imperial palace and took some photos in front of Shishinden where the most important ceremonies held. You can see a cherry tree and a citrus tree there and it is typical arrangement in front of the Imperial Thrones for the Emperor and the Empress. These two trees are displayed in the hina doll set because it is something like miniature of imperial court.

Experience“Heian Period” the time of Peace and Tranquility

 In the olden days, ancient capital Kyoto was called “Heian-kyo” which means the capital of peace and tranquility. Nowadays Kyoto is bustling with a lot of travelers from overseas and it is hard to feel the peaceful atmosphere and tranquility especially in the popular destinations. So today I would write about the place you can experience “Peace and Tranquility” in Kyoto.

 I guided family from Israel to the Sigureden-museum located in Arashiyama where you can enjoy the Japanese aristocrat costumes. The prepared ladies costumes are called “Uchigi” which was worn daily by noblewomen. “Uchigi” literally means clothing that is worn over other clothes. My guests put on it over their T-shirt with the assistance of museum volunteer. She directed us to make the atmosphere of Heian aristocrat court life. Without her help, I couldn’t take such nice pictures.

Father of gust family enjoyed wearing “Kariginu” which literally means hunting suit. It is worn daily by noblemen as casual clothes. Men’s attire here is time consuming work than women’s because you have to put on not only “Kariginu” but aloso the traditional trousers called “Hakama” and ancient coronet called “Eboshi”.

After the Sigureden museum, we headed to Otagi-Nenbutsuji temple by taking taxi. It is located a little bit far from the Togetsu-kyo bridge. There was no visitors except for us as well as in the Reiun-in temple.

Stone statues here are carved by worshipers from all over Japan. They made their original statues, some are playing the traditional flute and some are holding tennis rackets or baseball bat. Those statues brought peace to the hearts of us.

In such tranquil environment, we can talk various topics and that is not always related with sightseeing and culture. I was asked about the Japanese Self Defense Force and we talked the difference of our military system. One of my guest served in military service as officer several years ago and I could hardly image it. Japanese isn’t liable to military service. Compared to their homeland, Japan is definitely peaceful country .

Japanese takes it for granted but "Peace" must be the one of the important factor to attract the foreign visitor.

Relics of the tycoon Hideyoshi

  If I had a time machine, I would go back 400 years ago and visit  the  Great Buddha Hall of Kyoto. It was the building storing a Buddha statue 4 meter lager than the one located in Nara. Although it was totally burned out by the lightning in the late 18th C, you can see it in the following screen painting.
The area in and around the Kyoto city (Funaki-version)

 The Great Buddha was built by the extraordinary warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. He took on the project to rebuild the devastated Kyoto city after the long civil war. The Great Buddha Hall of Kyoto was the symbol of the project and his glory as well as the Jurakutei castle which was Hideyoshi's residence and government house in Kyoto.

 Unfortunately Hideyoshi died September 18, 1598 before the completion of the hall.

 (Toyotomi Hideyoshi, February 2, 1536, or March 26, 1537 – September 18, 1598)
He was born in peasant family and finally reached to the top of power. That's the reason his birth record is uncertain.

 Yesterday was anniversary of his death so I guided my guest from Germany to the places related with Hideyoshi.

  The precincts of the  Great Buddha Hall included today's Kyoto National Museum, Chishaku-in temple and part of Sanjusangen-do temple. According to historical records, not only Japanese but also Western people visited the hall and they were overwhelmed by the size of the building and the statue as well as the number of statues in Sanjusangen-do temple. Maybe around there was the most popular tourist destinations in Kyoto in that time.

 Chishaku-in temple is the best place where you can feel the atmosphere of the time of Hideyoshi. You can relax on the tatami mat surrounded by gorgeous paintings and peaceful garden. 

It is said that the garden is reflecting the taste of Rikyu who was the extraordinary tea master served for Hideyoshi.  

The garden was inspired by the area around Mt.Lushan in China. The rain added the mysterious profundity of the garden.

 It was rainy day but we can enjoy sightseeing inside the halls at the destinations.  After visiting Chishaku-in, we visited the shrine dedicated to Hideyoshi. A lot of people including foreigners had already gathered in front of the gate and watching the memorial service for Hideyoshi.

 There are some posters of NHK historical drama of this year in the precinct of the shrine. It is the story of legendary samurai warrior Sanada Yukimura who served for Hideyoshi’s family and fought against the strongest power, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of Edo shogunate. You can watch the 5 minutes digest at the NHK youtube channel.





 Screen painting of Jurakudai, Hideyoshi's residence and government house in Kyoto. 

Only the relics of Breat Buddha hall and Jurakudai  remain in Kyoto but the contribution of  Hideyoshi for the development of the ancient capital is remarkable.  That's why he is loved by local people even today. 

Festival held in the Shrine Pond

Kyoto is surrounded by mountain and it’s really hot and humid in summer. I guided several tourists from overseas to temples and shrines in the last week of July but hotness took away our energies to enjoy there…That was the reason why we went to Mitarashi Festival held in Shimogamo Shrine. It was beyond my expectation. 

Shimogamo Shrine is connected to water and people purify themselves at the Mitarashi pond. Late July, the festival is held here and there is a wading ritual in which people walk in the water praying for good health. I was surprised that the water was so clean and cold. Actually it is well water and the pond is cleaned by the priest.

 After enjoying the ritual, we prayed in front of the shrine above the pond called “Inouesha” literally means the shrine above the well. People wrote their wish on the wooden tablet and it is quite common in Japanese shrine. Unique thing here is its shape of the tablet.

 

 Not only in late July but also March 3rd, this shrine holds the ritual at this Mitarashi pond. Praying for good health is common feature of both of them.



 We could encounter one of the famous man of Japanese TV program “Discovery of the World's Mysteries”. Usually it features some mysterious places around Europe or Africa such as　Sphinx of Egyp. But Japan is also treasure of mysteries.
 

 If you visit Kyoto in late July, Shimogamo shrine and its ritual would be one of the must to experience Japanese culture.